Lost in transition

Arua - Kampala, Uganda - 2018, April

I traveled from Bidibidi center to Kampala with Francis, a friend from South Sudan. He has been living in Bidibidi refugee settlement, in Yumbe discrict since he arrived in Uganda in 2017, fleeing from his home country civil war and famine. As he did, a lot of refugees decide after some time living in the settlement, to try to reach the capital, usually by coach. In Bidibidi many young men do occasional and small repair jobs, other than that they can’t find a work to make ends meet. According to the rules of the settlement, residents can look for a job but they should not move out of a defined area around the district of Yumbe: reaching Kampala represents a high risk of getting reported or broke, but the only hope to change their living conditions and try to help their family. In the flow of vicissitudes and impressions of the journey through the country, we receive messages and photos from another friend, Otto, who chose to stay in Bidibidi sharing with us the news from the center. Looking at the present on going life that he just left, while approaching the city, Francis is confronted by his choice, between staying in the center fighting to survive with no proper salary, or trying to get out there and hope for a future that seems more and more illusory and scary.

After a motorcycle ride to Yumbe and then by taxibrousse to Arua, we arrived at a corner station to leave by coach to Kampala. It was scheduled to leave at noon, but actual departure time depend on passenger loads as buses always tend to go when ful…

After a motorcycle ride to Yumbe and then by taxibrousse to Arua, we arrived at a corner station to leave by coach to Kampala. It was scheduled to leave at noon, but actual departure time depend on passenger loads as buses always tend to go when full and pick up additional passengers en-route to fill the aisle. Journey time was supposed to be around 12 hours for lots of stops to pick up and drop travellers, but it lasted 16 hours.

The bus tore along at break neck speeds when not stopped to pick up or drop passengers

The bus tore along at break neck speeds when not stopped to pick up or drop passengers

When the driver stops at designed stops, many people crowd around to sell meat skewers, chewing roots, drinks and cell phone chargers. Stops are mostly short and the sellers can’t get on the vehicle because it’s too crowded: they use long sticks, wh…

When the driver stops at designed stops, many people crowd around to sell meat skewers, chewing roots, drinks and cell phone chargers. Stops are mostly short and the sellers can’t get on the vehicle because it’s too crowded: they use long sticks, which the products on sale are hunging from, so that passengers find what they want in front of the window. They pay them putting money in some baskets that are hanging from the same sticks

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Otto starts sending photos after the bus left the station in Arua, a day after we left Bidibidi.

A protest is emerging inside the center.

So far isolated cases of conflicts have been reported between

Dinka and Nuer ethnic groups members for the memories of the atrocities of their home country civil war. This time Otto explains that there was a small fight, but police reaction has raised up tension around different issues about center living conditions.

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At this latitude, sun sets suddenly bringing darkness and a drastic lowering of temperature. Due to the wear of time, the coach is full of holes on the windows and the frame, where often insects come in from. Cold air drafts come inside as well and …

At this latitude, sun sets suddenly bringing darkness and a drastic lowering of temperature. Due to the wear of time, the coach is full of holes on the windows and the frame, where often insects come in from. Cold air drafts come inside as well and by night some people use tape paper to plug them.  

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The coach stops in the night in a complete dark place. Blackouts happen all the time in Uganda. Except in Kampala, where the system is more stable, electricity can stop anytime anywhere in the country. Even with the dark, people are used to do everything as if the light is still on: this woman braids her friend's hair with the help of a flashlight.

People walk along the side of the streets in the complete darkness. Driving by night is dangerous there are no light and many animals cross the streets coming out of nowhere. Above all, car roads are often the only way for people to get home after s…

People walk along the side of the streets in the complete darkness. Driving by night is dangerous there are no light and many animals cross the streets coming out of nowhere. Above all, car roads are often the only way for people to get home after sunset, and the risk of running over is very high.

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In order to save time, the coach makes very few stops to go to the toilet. During the night many passengers complain and the driver stops in the open countryside. People rush outside to at least pee. The driver starts the engine again as soon as eve…

In order to save time, the coach makes very few stops to go to the toilet. During the night many passengers complain and the driver stops in the open countryside. People rush outside to at least pee. The driver starts the engine again as soon as everyone has got off and proceeds slowly at a walking pace, honking the horn repeatedly. As soon as we finish we run towards the door, the last ones are forced to cling to the coach door in order to get on. The driver would not let anyone down according to the passengers but this way he’s sure no one is going to waste time.

Early in the morning the coach stops for some malfunction. When the driver can't get it started anymore you have to wait for the arrival of the baby coach, a smaller bus that leaves from the departure station about 3 hours after the first one, and t…

Early in the morning the coach stops for some malfunction. When the driver can't get it started anymore you have to wait for the arrival of the baby coach, a smaller bus that leaves from the departure station about 3 hours after the first one, and that pick passengers up in case the first one stops.

Otto text us“Situation is getting worse here, some people raided one of the offices, against all the burocracy they always put in front of us”

Otto’s message:

“Situation is getting worse here, some people raided one of the offices, against all the burocracy they always put in front of us”

 
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“Someone crashed the police car with wood sticks.”

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While we wait we observe the road. We see motorcycles and private cars crossing by, but also pedestrians and minivans completely packed with people.

While we wait we observe the road. We see motorcycles and private cars crossing by, but also pedestrians and minivans completely packed with people.

The baby coach is arrived. Sometimes it leaves the main road, going into narrower and sometimes unpaved roads to pick up passengers at some villages stops. Looking at a woman, Francis explains me that every girl in Uganda has to do the laundry for t…

The baby coach is arrived. Sometimes it leaves the main road, going into narrower and sometimes unpaved roads to pick up passengers at some villages stops. Looking at a woman, Francis explains me that every girl in Uganda has to do the laundry for the family. When they grow up it’s considered easier to stand up in order to get faster to the water source: the basin is always on the floor, there is no piece of furniture for it, so women learn how to bend over.

At the last stops before reaching the capital, many people get on loaded with all kinds of products to sell, filling to the brim the baby coach passenger compartment. They are going to the markets of the city.Everyone in Bidibidi heard at least one …

At the last stops before reaching the capital, many people get on loaded with all kinds of products to sell, filling to the brim the baby coach passenger compartment. They are going to the markets of the city.

Everyone in Bidibidi heard at least one story about someone that ended up at the market, picking up vegetables and piece of fruits left on the ground, becase they have fallen or because they are not ripe yet or almost rotten and then try to resell them for the rest of the day. Francis heard this kind of stories, and he says that at least these people are working. Even if they spend the day wandering around looking at the ground and try not to get kicked out of the market. At least at the end of the day they might get something out of it.

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“They set a fire, they re saying that more policemen are going to arrive”

“There are not so many people,  they are going to stop them”

“There are not so many people, they are going to stop them”

Suddenly the sky becomes dark and it starts to rain heavily. On unpaved stretches of road the coach proceeds slowly due to torrential rain. Francis is worried for his family and friends.

Suddenly the sky becomes dark and it starts to rain heavily. On unpaved stretches of road the coach proceeds slowly due to torrential rain. Francis is worried for his family and friends.

We finally reach the Nile Coach station in Kampala. The capital of Uganda is extremely overcrowded and reports low economic growth, slow labor markets, limited access to capital, and rural-urban migration affecting high population growth rates.

We finally reach the Nile Coach station in Kampala. The capital of Uganda is extremely overcrowded and reports low economic growth, slow labor markets, limited access to capital, and rural-urban migration affecting high population growth rates.

A man is climbing up and down of a public mini van to load the luggage of the passengers. Transport in Kampala is one of the main issue, people are always moving everywhere to pick up things to sell or exchange, and it can be hard to get wherever yo…

A man is climbing up and down of a public mini van to load the luggage of the passengers. Transport in Kampala is one of the main issue, people are always moving everywhere to pick up things to sell or exchange, and it can be hard to get wherever you need to go because of the traffic jam.

Ugandan taxies in Kampala, trying to get full of passengers to leave the big parking plaza.

Ugandan taxies in Kampala, trying to get full of passengers to leave the big parking plaza.

Kampala is a huge market, every street corner offers great variety of products displayed on sidewalks, roads, cars and stairways. Every day traders and occasional sellers travel around the city with every possible means of transportation to get new …

Kampala is a huge market, every street corner offers great variety of products displayed on sidewalks, roads, cars and stairways. Every day traders and occasional sellers travel around the city with every possible means of transportation to get new goods.

Taxi drivers pay fake passengers to make their vans look full because all seats need to be occupied before they can depart. Any traveler would choose an almost full taxi over an half empty one, because they think it will take less time to fill up an…

Taxi drivers pay fake passengers to make their vans look full because all seats need to be occupied before they can depart. Any traveler would choose an almost full taxi over an half empty one, because they think it will take less time to fill up and it will leave sooner. Drivers pay fake passengers to make their vans looks full all around the ride.

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“they are arresting some of the protesters”

 
 
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How are you Francis?

What is going on at the center is the reason you have to leave for, to find a better future for you and your family. But then you cannot live well if you are worried for the people you love when something like this happens. Our home is South Sudan, but I miss also the center because if i were there i would be there to fight for a job for the water for everything.

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“not so many people arrived at the protest but is the one i remember as biggest so far, people are tired and in difficulties”

Don’t worry I would do something here.

Don’t worry I would do something here.

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